WHEN I was about four years old and visiting my
grandparents, I spotted a slotted wooden carton in their back hall. It was
filled with brown and orange bottles.
“What’s that?” I asked.
“Moxie,” replied my grandfather. “It’s my favorite drink.
Want to try some?” He put an ice cube in a little plastic cup and poured the
fizzy brown soda over it.
I took a sip. For a
fraction of a second, the taste was sweet, like the root beer I was
expecting. And then an ungodly medicinal
bitterness exploded in my mouth. I spit everything
back in the cup. My grandfather laughed.
“It’s an acquired taste,” he said.
More than half a century later, I know he was wrong. Coffee is an acquired taste. Scotch is an acquired taste. Steamed clams and raw oysters are “acquired
tastes.” Not Moxie.
Moxie is the durian of carbonated drinks. It’s an acquired taste like sweetbreads and
blood pudding, tripe and haggis.
One day at a restaurant in Iceland, the waiter politely informed
our table that the specialty of the house was sour ram’s testicles. I almost asked, “Is that served with Moxie?”
Nei takk to the house specialty, and no thanks to Moxie.



